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The Hawkesbury waterway system offers all these boating opportunities in a setting of spectacular beauty. It is also a very safe cruising area with only the odd mudbank to strand the careless navigator.
And the fishing this year has been spectacular. Over Christmas, we've seen a magnificent 41 kg mulloway taken under the 'bridge, witnessed an awe-struck angler in his 4 m tinnie hook (and land !) a 50 kg black marlin whilst trolling for tailor off Barrenjoey Headland ? while the River has been producing some of the biggest flathead we've seen for years.
I have been enjoying the river for a quarter of a century, first in cruisers chartered from Halvorsens, and then in our traditional riverboat ? now 70 years old and still going strong. Boating on the Hawksbury River never loses its appeal as the river system has much to offer ? and it is only a few kilometres from Sydney !
The main river is navigable, and tidal for some 110 km up to the bridge at Windsor. Together with its creeks and bays it has more than 1 100 km of shoreline. The varied shoreline includes the densely suburban eastern side of Pittwater, sheltered sandy beaches, nearly vertical cliffs rising over 130 m, extensive mangrove swamps, and the low grassy banks and pastures of the upper reaches. The size of the waterway and the variety of its landscapes make it one of the most attractive cruising grounds to be found anywhere in the world.
Governor Phillip began exploring these waters only a few weeks after the arrival of the First Fleet in Port Jackson. On his third expedition, in search of agricultural land to support the struggling Colony he finally succeeded in reaching present-day Windsor in June 1789. The produce that was to be shipped down the river to Sydney played a vital role in supporting the early settlement. These historical associations of the Hawkesbury and the many remains of the pioneer communities that may still be seen add another dimension of interest to a cruising holiday.
Yachts generally keep to Pittwater, Broken Bay and the river below Brooklyn where there is plenty of space, deep water and breeze from the adjacent ocean. This is an excellent sailing area with plenty of sheltered anchorages and opportunities for picnics ashore. Upstream from the Hawkesbury railway bridge at Brooklyn (clearance 11.8 m at MHWS) the winds tend to be lighter and often contrary because of the convoluted shape of the valley. Any craft able to pass under the railway bridge can pass through the road bridges at Kangaroo Point and under all of the overhead cables between there and Windsor, more than 70 kms away. Needless to say, trailerboats rarely have a problem making it under the bridge !
The Major Areas
Pittwater is a very popular stretch of sailing water throughout most of the year. It is well worth cruising around its bays, circling Scotland Island and then returning past Barrenjoey lighthouse and Lion Island ? stopping off for a picnic at Coasters Retreat where the Kookaburras will eat out of your hand.
As far as the kids are concerned, a swim in the crystal clear tidal lagoon in The Basin (at the head of Coasters Retreat) will certainly be one of the highlights of the holiday.
Broken Bay though, should be treated with respect. It is open to the ocean swells, and if the tide is running out against a fresh breeze, a nasty sea can build up, especially on the 4E run around West Head in Pittwater down to Juno Point on the river proper. In windy conditions, it is best to make the passage to and from Pittwater with an incoming tide, and hug the shoreline between Flint and Steel Point and Challenger Head Cowan Creek is very deep and surrounded by the rugged bushlands of Ku-ring-gai Chase national park. Fuel and supplies are available at Bobbin Head, Cottage Point and Akuna Bay.
There are plenty of small bays in which to anchor or secure to a public mooring. Refuge Bay is just one of these, and, as the name suggests, it is a very sheltered and a popular spot to overnight. It also has a sandy beach and waterfall. Some giant mulioway have been caught in Cowan already this year and there is always a good chance of hooking a 2 m hairtail in winter.
The main river begins between Juno Head and Eleanor Bluffs. Heading upstream, the first port of call is the small fishing village of Brooklyn where provisions, fuel and water are available. Nearby is Dangar Island where Governor Phillip camped in 1788.
The river then passes under the railway bridge and under the road bridges at Kangaroo Point before sweeping past Milson Island and the wreck of the Parramatta, Australia's first warship. Bar Island, at the mouth of Berowra Creek, is a good spot to go ashore for a picnic and visit the pioneer graveyard, now sadly vandalised.
Berowra Creek is very secluded with Marramarra national park along one shore and Muogamarra nature reserve along the other. Peats Bite restaurant is located near the entrance and the Berowra Waters Inn lies further up: reservations are essential if you wish to dine at either of these. The cable ferry at Berowra Waters is the limit of navigation. Fuel and water are available at the marinas and there are two restaurants.
The next port of call on the main river is the village of Spencer at the mouth of Mangrove Creek. Provisions and water are available and you can chat with the locals under the mangrove tree at the celebrated Dunkirk Hotel.
From Spencer to Wisemans Ferry the broad river winds between immense sandstone cliffs fringed with impressive stands of mangroves, Apart from a few small riverside communities and the overhead power cables, this part of the river has changed very little since Governor Phillip scanned the banks from his longboat.
At Wisemans Ferry, fuel and water are available at a wharf and a short walk leads up to the historic village where Cobham Hall, built by Wiseman about 1820, now serves as a hotel. On the opposite shore is the Great North Road, one of Australia's engineering marvels. Built by convicts in 1830 it is well worth visiting if you have time for a two hour easy walk and/or the kids need to use some pent-up energy.
The river above Wisemans continues to wind between high cliffs until the confluence with the Colo River. This is a good spot to anchor overnight. It is .very peaceful and tree-lined with whip birds to wake you in the morning.
Upstream from the Colo the terrain becomes more subdued and there are farmlands along the banks. The river also gradually narrows and depths decrease Pat Emnghij is the last port of call before Windsor. Water a scarce commodity, in the upper reaches, and fuel may be obtained here three kilometers further on is Ebenezei A trip ashore is a must here to Australia's oldest church standing close to the riverbank
From Ebenzer to Windsor the landscape flattens and there are views of the Blue Mountains. Windsor is a good shopping centre and it has many attractive historic buildings. A short walk from the river are the recently restored observations of the astronomer John Tebbutt - featured on the $100 note The ocean seems very distant from the heart of Macquarie country but the rise and fall of the tide is a reminder of its influence.
Trailerboat owners have a much wider choice of itineraries, it being possible to explore creeks not accessible to deeper draft vessels. These waterways can. of course, be enjoyed by using the dinghy of a larger boat.
Public launching ramps are located in Pittwater, Akuna Bay, Appletree Bay, Brooklyn, Mooney Point, Windsor and elsewhere. Near Wisemans Ferry it is possible to arrange a launch at most of the ski resorts.
Starting at Brooklyn or Mooney. which are easily reached from the Sydney-Newcastle freeway, you can navigate Mullet Creek and Mooney Mooney Creek. The latter is navigable for some 12 km and passes through very picturesque unspoilt country.
From Berowra Waters the undisturbed solitude of Marramarra Creek can be experienced as it winds through the national park.
Mangrove Creek enters the Hawkesbury at Spencer and a full day is needed to explore it and its delightful tributary, Popran Creek. Despite the large number of small craft around these days you are unlikely to meet anyone else on these waterways.
Trailerboat owners launching in the Wisemans Ferry region have access to three major tributaries. The MacDonald River enters opposite Wisemans but navigating through this area can be difficult (accept at high tide) because of the sandbanks created by flooding.
Nearby is Webbs Creek, the most beautiful of the Hawkesbury waterways in my view. Unfortunately for everyone except trailerboat owners, permission was given for a low bridge (clearance 2.0 m at MHWS) to be built near the entrance, barring access by larger vessels.
The creek is deep and navigable for some 10 km. Ducks and cormorants abound and you will probably see some brilliantly coloured kingfishers. It's also worth noting that Webbs Creek is rumoured to be one of the best bass fishing environments near Sydney, so if you'd like the chance of fishing for one of these wily natives, this could be a good place to start.
The Colo River drains an immense wilderness area and is navigable by small boats as far as the Putty Road bridge. In the old days small steamers carried produce down for the Sydney markets. The scenery is spectacular, a mixture of steep cliffs and river pastures.
These creeks and rivers are little-known despite their attractions for anyone seeking a quiet day on the water. Two cautionary notes, ft is wise to enter them (especially the smaller ones) soon after low water and to begin the return journey before high water. An 8 knot speed limit applies to most of them so take things easy and enjoy the scenery.
Conclusion
The Hawkesbury River System is one of the world's most beautiful and interesting waterways. These notes about this great cruising ground should be taken as an appetiser, as they give only a small indication of the great variety of boating opportunities the Hawkesbury has to offer the cruising sailor. For more detailed information, please refer to our book Cruising Guide To The Hawkesbury. We have enjoyed cruising holidays on waterways in England, Ireland and Canada. They all have their unique attractions but the Hawkesbury remains our favourite, and we return to it as often as we can, seduced by its extraordinary beauty.
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